Discovering Lebanon

Our journey begins in the capital, Beirut, where we explore its Islamic and Christian heritage including the treasures of the National Museum, the Roman Baths, St. George’s Cathedral and the vast Great Mosque.  A day is devoted to the ancient cities of Sidon and Tyre, which were important centres in biblical times, and the 7th-century Phoenician Temple of Echmoun. 

Leaving the city we visit Baalbeck , the most important Roman site in the Middle East, the Ummayad remains at Anjar and the Ksara Vineyard to sample some of Lebanon’s famous wines, before spending a night in the Beqaa Valley.  From here we drive through the magnificent scenery of the Lebanon Mountains visiting the astonishing Jeita Grotto, a complex of spectacular caves in the Nahr El Kalb Valley, and the pilgrimage site at Harissa, which has spectacular views of the coastline and the sea. 

Our journey ends in the ancient town of Byblos, reputed to be the oldest inhabited town in the world.  In addition to exploring this picturesque port, we also venture to the Phoenician settlement at Becharreh, the medieval monastery at Kozhaya and, last but not least, the fabled ‘Cedars of Lebanon’ in their dramatically beautiful setting high in the mountains.  A fitting finale.

Day 1: Friday, 20th April

London / Beirut

Depart London Heathrow on a British Midland afternoon flight to Beirut arriving late in the evening.  Transfer to the Bristol Hotel, a 5 star hotel located in the heart of Beirut, where four nights are spent.  Light snack on arrival.

Day 2: Saturday, 21st April

Beirut

Full day city tour of Beirut including Pigeon Rock, the famous geological formations off the coast and the AUB (American University Beirut) Museum founded in 1868 which is the third oldest Museum in the Near East exhibiting a wide range of artefacts from Lebanon and neighbouring countries tracing the history of the Near East, from the Early Stone Age to the Islamic period.  Continue to St. George’s Cathedral, built in 1767, which, until the recent war in Lebanon, was the oldest functioning Greek-Orthodox church in Beirut.  The decorations on its walls were lost during the war however the cathedral has recently been restored.  Visit the Al Omari Mosque, originally the Crusader Cathedral of St. John (1113-1150 AD), the building was transformed into the city’s Grand Mosque by the Mamlukes in 1291.

Lunch at a local restaurant.  Visit the Cardo Maximus, discovered in 1963, next to the Maronite Cathedral of St. George in the downtown area, the five Roman columns are the remnants of a Roman market in Beirut and date back to the 2nd century AD.   Continue to the Roman Baths, situated behind Bank Street, which once served the city’s population.  Originally discovered in 1968-69, they underwent a thorough cleaning and further excavation in 1995-1997.  Finally visit the famous Robert Mouawad Private Museum which exhibits a unique collection of books, ceramics, historical columns, pottery, ancient weapons, unique carpets, sophisticated jewellery pieces, objets d'art and rare precious stones.  Return to the hotel.  Dinner at the hotel.

Day 3: Sunday, 22nd April

Beirut, Deir El Kamar & Beiteddine

Morning visit to the Beirut National Museum, the principal museum of archaeology in Lebanon.  The collection began after World War I, and the museum was officially opened in 1942. The museum has collections totalling about 100,000 objects, most of which are antiquities and medieval finds from excavations undertaken by the Directorate General of Antiquities.  Depart for Deir El Kamar, a village 5 kilometres outside of Beiteddine, consisting of stone houses with red-tiled roofs.  During the 16th to 18th centuries, Deir el Qamar was the residence of the governors of Lebanon.  It is also notable for its 15th century Fakhreddine Mosque, Fakhreddine II Palace, and other historical palaces and administrative buildings.  The 17th century Deir el Qamar Synagogue is also in the village, although closed to the public.  During its peak, the city was the centre of Lebanese literary tradition.  It was the first village in Lebanon to have a municipality in 1864, and it is the birthplace of many well known personalities, such as artists, writers, and politicians.  

Lunch at a local restaurant in Deir El Kamar. Continue on to the Beiteddine Palace, ‘house of faith’, a restored early 19th century palace complex built over a period of 30 years, starting in 1788, which became the stronghold of Emir Bashir, the Ottoman-appointed governor and leading member of the Shihab family.   Return to the hotel.   Dinner at a local restaurant in Raouche. 

Day 4: Monday, 23rd April

Beirut, Tyre, Sidon & Echmoun

Morning visit to the ancient Phoenician city of Tyre, the legendary birthplace of Europa and Elissa (Dido).  The city has a number of ancient sites to explore including the Al-Bass Necropolis, which consists of hundreds of stone and marble sarcophagi from the Roman and Byzantine eras; Al Mina excavation site, an impressive setting leading down to the ancient Egyptian harbour which incorporates remains of Roman and Byzantine Tyre; and the Roman Hippodrome, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which was once used for very popular and dangerous chariot races and seated some 20,000 spectators.  Depart for the small port city of Sidon, at least 6,000 years old, which was once a prominent and wealthy Phoenician city and is often mentioned in the works of the Greek poet Homer.  With its charming Crusader Sea Castle and its fine mosques, souqs, khans and vaulted souqs, it is one of the most attractive and historically significant towns in Lebanon. 

Lunch at a local restaurant in Sidon.  Continue to the Temple of Echmoun, situated 2 kilometres from Sidon in a lush valley of citrus groves on the Awwali River.  The site is known locally as ‘Bustan esh-Sheikh’ (Garden of the Sheikh) and is a popular picnic spot with the locals in the summer.  Echmoun was the principal god of the city of Sidon and was associated with healing.  It is the only Phoenician site in Lebanon that retains more than its foundation walls.  Return to Beirut.  Dinner at the hotel.

Day 5: Tuesday, 24th April

Beirut / Baalbeck / Anjar / Ksara / Chtaura

Depart for Baalbeck, the ‘Sun City’ of the ancient world, the most impressive ancient site in Lebanon and arguably the most important Roman site in the Middle East.  Its temples were built on an extravagant scale that outshone anything in Rome, and the town became a centre of worship well into the Christian era.   Depart for Zahleh.

Lunch at a local restaurant in Zahleh.  Continue to the Ksara Vineyard, Lebanon’s oldest and most famous winery which was originally the site of a medieval fortress, for a tour of the vineyard and a wine-tasting.  Continue to Anjar, a unique Umayyad site in Lebanon, built and then abandoned in the 8th century leaving a number of well-preserved ruins.  Enjoy a stroll in the main city where sites include the Khalifa Palace, the Harem Palace, the Mosque and the baths.  Drive to Chtaura and check into the comfortable 4 star, Chtaura Park Hotel, where one night is spent.  Dinner at the hotel.

Day 6: Wednesday, 25th April

Chtaura / Nahr El Kalb / Jeita / Harissa / Byblos

Depart for Nahr El Kalb, which dates back to the days of Ramses II, before continuing to the Jeita Grotto, a stunning series of caverns, containing one of the world’s most impressive agglomerations of stalactites and stalagmites.  During the civil war (1975-1990), the caves were used as an ammunitions store, but have since been re-opened.  Continue to Harissa, the gigantic white statue of the Virgin of Lebanon with her arms outstretched, situated high above the Jounieh bay where she has stood since the 19th century. 

Lunch at a local restaurant in Jounieh.  Drive to Byblos, a picturesque ancient fishing harbour, claimed to be the oldest inhabited town in the world, and check into the 5 star, Byblos Sur la Mer, a boutique hotel in the centre of town where three nights are spent.  Dinner at the hotel.

Day 7: Thursday, 26th April

Byblos, Cedars, Becharreh & Kozhaya

Morning visit to the town of Becharreh, birthplace of Khalil Gibran (1883-1931), Lebanon’s most famous literary figure.  He is mostly known in the West as the author of The Prophet.  Continue to The Cedars, high up in the mountains of Lebanon which is one of the most dramatically beautiful spots in the country and is famous for its ski resort.  Its centrepiece is an ancient grove of cedars, a tree synonymous for millennia within Lebanon itself.

Lunch at a local restaurant in Cedars.  Depart for the celebrated Valley of Kozhaya, the ‘Living Treasure’, named after the Monastery of Kozhaya, known as the Monastery of St. Anthony the Great (Mar Antonios al-Kabir). The monastery is some 950 metres above sea level and is thought to have been built in 4th century and lived in by hermits.  However much of the evidence of this has been destroyed as the monastery has been set on fire and looted several times but there still remain vestiges dating back to 7th century.   Return to Byblos.  Dinner at the hotel.

Day 8: Friday, 27th April

Byblos & Tripoli

Morning sight seeing tour of Byblos including the Roman theatre, a charming reconstruction and only a third of its original size.  First built in AD 218, its orchestra had a fine mosaic floor depicting Bacchus, now at the national museum.  Continue to the Crusader’s Castle, built by the Franks in the 12th century and constructed out of monumental blocks, mostly pillaged from the Roman ruins.  Also see the nine royal tombs dating from 2nd millennium BC; these ‘well tombs’ have all been raided for their treasure.  The most important tomb is that of King Hiram (1200 BC), who was a contemporary of Ramses II of Egypt.  The shaft containing his grave was inscribed with early Phoenician script that said ‘Warning here.  Thy death is below’. 

Lunch at a local restaurant in Batroun.  Optional afternoon tour to Tripoli or afternoon at leisure.  Tripoli, is the second largest city in Lebanon and is famous for its medieval Mamluk architecture, including a large old city souk area acknowledged as being the best in Lebanon.  Farewell dinner at Mhanna restaurant, a famous fish restaurant in the harbour. 

Day 9: Saturday, 28th April

Byblos / Beirut / London

Transfer to Beirut airport for a British Midland morning flight to London, arriving at Heathrow Airport in the early afternoon.