Kyrgyzstan: Beyond the Silk Road with Alexandra Tolstoy Travel

Alexandra has been exploring Kyrgyzstan on horseback for over twenty years, developing routes through some of the country’s most remote and beautiful mountain regions. Our journeys combine genuine adventure with an exceptional level of comfort. Unlike riding holidays based in fixed yurt camps, we travel from place to place, setting up camp in a different location each evening. Guests sleep in spacious British-made tents with proper beds and enjoy hot showers every evening. Our mess tent is furnished with tables and chairs, Uzbek china and oil lamps, and our three cooks prepare wonderful meals using fresh local ingredients. Our experienced local team of horsemen and guides has worked with us for many years, providing an intimate understanding of the landscapes, people and traditions of Kyrgyzstan.

Days are spent riding through spectacular and constantly changing landscapes, from vast open steppe and alpine pastures to deep gorges, glacial rivers and remote mountain villages. We generally spend around six hours in the saddle, stopping for a leisurely picnic lunch. Our route takes us through areas rarely visited by outsiders, following ancient paths used by generations of shepherds and nomads. There is time to meet local families, observe rural life and appreciate the extraordinary scale and solitude of the mountains. Evenings are spent around the campfire, often beneath magnificent star-filled skies. These are journeys that offer a genuine sense of exploration and adventure.

Yes. Our journeys are designed for confident riders who are comfortable walking, trotting and cantering in open country. We spend approximately six hours a day in the saddle, often over mountainous terrain, so a good level of riding fitness is important. Our Kyrgyz horses are hardy, sure-footed and exceptionally well suited to the mountains, while the traditional Kyrgyz saddles are remarkably comfortable for long days of riding. Our experienced horsemen carefully match each guest with a suitable horse.

The At-Bashi region lies beneath the magnificent mountain range of the same name, whose peaks rise above 4,000 metres along the border with China. The landscape is extraordinarily varied, from vast stretches of steppe to rocky gorges, glacial rivers and small farming villages where several generations live and work together. In summer, shepherds move their animals to high pastures, living in yurts much as their ancestors have done for centuries. The region was once an important part of the Silk Road, and our journey takes us to Tash Rabat, a remarkable medieval stone caravanserai hidden in a remote mountain valley.

The two journeys have very different characters. At-Bashi is a faster ride, with long trots and exhilarating canters across open country, while Sary-Chelek is predominantly at a walking pace along narrow drovers’ paths. The latter is particularly beautiful in spring, when the alpine meadows are covered in wildflowers, including tulips, peonies and ranunculi, many of which are familiar from European gardens. Ancient walnut forests and lush mountain pastures give Sary-Chelek a softer, greener character, in contrast to the immense scale and openness of At-Bashi.

Our journeys begin in Bishkek, where we explore the city’s fascinating mixture of Soviet architecture, leafy boulevards and views of the snow-covered Tien Shan Mountains. We visit the Museum of Fine Arts, with its remarkable collection of traditional Kyrgyz textiles and feltwork, and explore the colourful Osh Bazaar, where everything from horse saddles to spices and embroidered slippers is sold. In the mountains, we encounter Kyrgyzstan’s enduring nomadic traditions, meeting shepherds and their families, visiting yurts and sometimes being invited to taste kumiss, the traditional fermented mare’s milk. Guests may watch games of kok boru, Kyrgyzstan’s extraordinary horseback sport, or hear our horsemen singing traditional songs around the campfire. These encounters are a natural part of travelling through the country rather than staged tourist experiences.

Sary-Chelek lies in the lower Chatkal range of western Kyrgyzstan, a remote region of high passes, secluded valleys and extraordinary natural beauty. Our route follows ancient shepherds’ trails, climbing through alpine pastures and descending into valleys where few outsiders venture. The journey takes us through traditional villages, past herds of grazing animals and into the ancient walnut forests for which the region is famous. We finish at the summer pasture of our head horse guide’s family, a particularly special place that reflects our longstanding relationship with the people of this region.

Alexandra personally accompanies selected departures each year. An Ambassador for Tourism for the Kyrgyz Republic, she has spent over twenty years exploring the country and has an intimate knowledge of its history, culture and people. Other journeys are accompanied by our highly experienced guides, Vasily Berezhnoy and Vadim Savin, both of whom speak fluent English and have extensive knowledge of the regions through which we travel. All departures are supported by the same trusted local team of Kyrgyz horsemen, cooks and camp staff, ensuring consistently high standards of organisation, comfort and personal attention.