
A journey through Angola reveals a country of immense landscapes, complicated history and rare possibility.
By Hamish Van Gruisen | Director

Where to begin?
Angola is not an easy place to summarise. For a country as naturally diverse, dramatic and strikingly beautiful as this, it is perhaps no surprise that people are beginning to describe it as one of Africa’s next great frontiers for travel. The more interesting question is why a destination of this scale and spectacle has remained so far from the mainstream for so long.
The answer lies, inevitably, in Angola’s recent history. The civil war that shaped the country for almost three decades only came to an end in 2002. Peace has long since returned, but the legacy of that conflict remains visible in practical ways, most notably through the presence of minefields in parts of the country.
Yet Angola’s story today is also one of renewal and regeneration. Landscapes once difficult to access are reopening, conservation projects are gathering momentum, and the country’s extraordinary geography is beginning to re-emerge as one of its greatest strengths.
In the far south, where Angola borders Namibia, the coastline becomes an extension of the Skeleton Coast: a remote and elemental landscape where immense dunes fall towards the Atlantic Ocean. Further inland, Angola’s central highlands, often referred to as the “source of life”, give rise to river systems that sustain wetlands, floodplains and desert thousands of kilometres away. Among them is the Cubango River, whose waters flow southwards to shape the unique ecosystems of the Okavango Delta, before eventually reaching Botswana’s Kalahari Desert.
Geographically, it is quite unlike anywhere else I have travelled in Africa. In many ways, Angola feels like a wilder, more extreme version of both Namibia and Botswana. The one major difference, at least for now, is that Angola’s wildlife populations are still in the early stages of recovery post-conflict.
Animals that once moved through the country in huge numbers are now found in small but healthy pockets, thanks largely to the work of conservationists such as Stefan van Wyk in Cuatir, and organisations such as African Parks, who manage Iona National Park. Seeing wildlife return to these landscapes feels deeply encouraging, offering a powerful glimpse of Angola’s potential as conservation and rewilding efforts continue to gather pace.


Into Cuatir
During our visit, wildlife sightings were relatively modest, but there was a genuine sense that these landscapes are slowly coming back to life. What stayed with me most was not what was missing, but the feeling of what is beginning to return.
There is real momentum here. So much so that Natural Selections, one of Southern Africa’s leading conservation and safari operators, is actively exploring opportunities in Angola. If realised, which I expect in the coming months, it would bring vital investment into local communities, conservation projects and the continued demining work that remains so important to the country’s future.
That work is already under way. Organisations such as The HALO Trust are clearing minefields and reopening areas that were inaccessible for decades, allowing conservation and rewilding projects to begin again.
One of the most exciting examples is Cuatir, where Stefan van Wyk has created a wonderfully charming private reserve centred around a small, six-suite lodge overlooking the Cuatir floodplains. During our stay, we were lucky enough to see elephant, introduced in 2022, as well as kudu, warthog, caracal and an abundance of birdlife.
This is not a conventional safari experience, but there is something refreshingly pioneering about experiencing a place in its infancy. For seasoned safari-goers that is exactly what makes it so compelling. There is a genuine sense of exploration here, of travelling through a landscape that has not yet been shaped to meet expectations.
Even arriving at the reserve feels adventurous, crossing the Cubango River by makeshift ferry before continuing into a remote and beautiful wilderness.


Across Iona
A similar process of demining and renewal has transformed Iona National Park, Angola’s answer to the Skeleton Coast, where the scenery seems to change every couple of hours.
We were especially fortunate to arrive after two weeks of unusually heavy rain, which had turned vast stretches of desert into a sea of grasses and tiny wildflowers. The rainfall in 2026 has apparently been so remarkable that park rangers reported seeing flowers that had never previously been documented in the area.
We explored Iona in three 4x4s, moving through the park with a mobile tented camp. Our first night was spent just outside the northern edge of the park at Colinas de Curoca, a place with a distinct Wadi Rum feel and home to one of my all-time favourite “loos with a view”.
From there, we continued south to Espinheira, where the recent rain made camping feel more reminiscent of the East African plains than the Namib Desert.
The true highlight, however, came on the banks of the Cunene River. It was, without question, one of the most spectacular places I have ever experienced. On the Angolan side, dramatic and rugged escarpments plunge steeply towards the water. Across the river, less than 50 metres away in Namibia, enormous sand dunes rise more than 250 metres high, occasionally interrupted by the silhouette of a lone oryx making its way across the ridgeline.
I could quite happily have stayed there for weeks.



At Mumba Lodge
Between Cuatir and Iona lies Mumba Lodge, Angola’s answer to Babylonstoren. Set within a sprawling 200,000-acre plantation and developed around an old tobacco mill, this stylish 23-room property brings a very different rhythm to the journey.
Activities range from farm tours to safaris in a neighbouring private reserve, as well as horse riding for more experienced riders. For those less convincing in the saddle, myself included, there is also the option of exploring by beautifully restored two-person horse cart.
Mumba is, in many ways, Angola’s first true luxury lodge. The setting is stunning, the food excellent and the hospitality full of charm. Between the more rugged adventures of Cuatir and Iona, it provides a welcome touch of luxury and R&R.



Why Angola, and why now?
Angola is still at the beginning of its tourism story, which is exactly what makes this moment so exciting. The infrastructure is developing, conservation projects are gathering pace, and areas once inaccessible are gradually reopening. Travel here still requires patience and flexibility, but those small adjustments are part of a much bigger story: a country starting to reveal itself again.
That does mean journeys can occasionally take unexpected turns. Domestic flight schedules can require flexibility, road conditions mean that a 200-kilometre drive may become a day-long undertaking, and the harsh terrain can take its toll on vehicles. But with the right planning, this sense of movement and adaptation becomes part of the experience rather than an obstacle.
Angola is not a polished or predictable safari destination, at least not yet. It is raw, adventurous and wonderfully untamed. For those willing to embrace a little uncertainty, it offers something increasingly rare in modern travel: the feeling of discovering somewhere before the rest of the world arrives.
It will not be for everyone, and that is precisely what makes it so exciting. But for adventurous travellers drawn to dramatic landscapes, pioneering conservation stories, remote camps and a true sense of exploration, Angola is one of the most compelling destinations emerging in Africa today.
As infrastructure improves and conservation efforts continue to develop, Angola feels poised to become one of the continent’s most extraordinary travel experiences. For those curious to understand it now, while it still feels so wonderfully undiscovered, I would be delighted to share more and help shape the right journey.

Who it’s for
Best for: travellers who have already experienced Africa’s more established safari destinations and are ready for something wilder, less polished and far more pioneering.
Expect: vast landscapes, remote camps, long distances, shifting plans and a rare sense of being somewhere still in the process of opening up.
Not for: those looking for a conventional safari built around abundant wildlife, seamless logistics or a tightly fixed schedule. Angola asks for patience, flexibility and a little extra time, but rewards all three with something genuinely rare.
Discover our tailor-made Itinerary

Explore more with Ultimate Horizons
We’ve created something that sits between a brochure and a keepsake: Ultimate Horizons, our new coffee table book. Through long-form editorial, photography and first-hand stories from across The Ultimate Travel Company, it lingers on the places, people and journeys that continue to shape the way we think about travel.
This Angola journal belongs to that same spirit: a story of discovery, perspective and possibility, and one of many that invites you to look beyond the familiar when thinking about where to go next.
Ultimate Horizons is complimentary. If you’d like to receive your copy, simply fill in our submission form and we’ll take care of the rest. And if this story has sparked ideas for your own travels, you can also speak to our experts to start a conversation about what comes next.
Request your copyImage credits: Charlotte Bird (Passaro Publicity) and Stefan van Wyk