The 'Africa of old'

And sooner than I anticipated!

Within minutes of meeting my Nomad guide in the northern Serengeti, we were a riveted audience of just two at something that had always eluded me in Kenya - an actual wildebeest river crossing, complete with crocodiles patiently waiting for the herd to take the plunge and literally swim for their lives.

The cold drinks awaiting me at the Serengeti Safari Camp were further put on ice by an inquisitive family of elephants that decided to escort us slowly there...but get there I did to find the perfect fusion of simplicity and luxury.

This is exactly how a safari should be - three course meals, comfortable beds and bucket showers, and a camp that can be moved within 24 hours to ensure that guests are kept as close to the migratory action as possible.

Game drive at Katavi  Greystoke

Katavi is for those who think they have seen everything there is to see in Africa.

Imagine groups of up to 800 hippo seeking refuge from the sun (and predatory lion) in the last muddy pools, crocodile hibernating into riverbank caves and great herds of buffalo roaming across the vast wilderness plains.

I was even taken on a Pangolin hunt by my contagiously enthusiastic Nomad guide, who readily conceded that his life's work would be complete should he ever find one of these incredibly shy but revered animals.

Success eluded us though and Peter continues to guide!

A 12-seater Cessna Caravan then flew me on west to Greystoke, a wildly exotic camp of just five beautifully constructed, beachside chalets dividing the translucent waters of Lake Tanganyika from the lush, verdant slopes of the Mahale Mountains.

Tracking chimpanzee is the core experience here - and Mahale is home to the world's largest known population - but fishing the waters of the lake by hand line, eating your catch as fresh sashimi, exploring the shoreline by kayak or simply sunbathing on your private beach combine to make this surely the most unique non-safari destination in Africa.

I loved everything about it.

Read more about holidays to Tanzania.

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